Corneotherapy
We live in a world that constantly shows us images of people with flawless skin, making it easy to feel anxious about your own skin. The pressure to have "textureless" skin often comes from unrealistic beauty standards, heavily influenced by edited and filtered images in the media. The truth is, very few people have “perfect” skin, and we all deal with things like pores, pigmentation, acne, or redness from time to time. Healthy skin is more about nurturing it with good skincare habits, staying hydrated, and protecting it from harsh elements. Embracing these natural features rather than striving for perfection can actually lead to a more confident and genuine sense of beauty.
The living epidermis
It is understood today that the stratum corneum is rather a biologically active cellular tissue than just layers of dead skin cells. The co-inventor of Retin-A, Dr Albert Kligman and his partners discovered that the stratum corneum, and the lipid barrier that keeps it intact, play a significant role in skin health; it can send many signals to the underlying living epidermis and influences the regenerative processes in deeper layers of the skin. This understanding of skin health, along with appropriate interventions and topical treatments is an ensemble of therapies that Dr Kligman labelled “corneotherapy”.
The outermost layer of the skin serves several vital functions
A major component of our skin barrier is the corneocyte, a type of skin cell that starts its life much deeper within the skin as a keratinocyte (KC). These cells, rich in nutrients, are influenced by both internal health + external factors like diet. Over time, they move toward the surface, flattening as they go and secreting an oily substance around themselves. This process results in the formation of the skin barrier, that serves as the skin’s primary defense against environmental stressors.
When the skin barrier is disrupted, it can trigger structural inflammation and increase Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), where moisture escapes from the skin. This weakens the skin's natural defense mechanisms leading to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity. Maintaining a healthy skin barrier is therefore crucial for protecting the skin and preserving its overall health.
1. Protection - The epidermis acts as a first line of defense against environmental factors like UV radiation, pollutants, chemicals, and pathogens (bacteria, viruses, etc.). A healthy epidermis prevents these harmful agents from penetrating deeper layers of the skin and causing damage.
2. Moisture Retention The epidermis helps to retain moisture in the skin, preventing dehydration. It does this through a lipid-rich layer known as the stratum corneum, which forms a waterproof barrier that helps the skin maintain hydration and avoid excessive water loss.
3. Preventing Inflammation - A well-functioning epidermis helps to keep inflammation at bay by maintaining a strong barrier and reducing the entry of irritants and allergens that could trigger inflammatory skin conditions, such as eczema or psoriasis.
4. Regeneration The epidermis is responsible for skin cell turnover, which is the process by which old skin cells are shed and replaced with fresh, new cells. This continuous regeneration helps keep the skin looking smooth and youthful and allows it to heal from minor injuries.
What is corneotherapy?
Corneotherapy is a skincare approach that focuses on the repair and maintenance of the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, which is essential for protecting the skin and maintaining its barrier function. The term "corneo" refers to this outer layer of skin, and "therapy" indicates the treatment or care provided to improve its health.
The goal of corneotherapy is to support the long-term, sustainable health of the skin by focusing on restoring and strengthening the skin’s natural barrier. This becomes especially important when the barrier has been compromised by factors such as environmental stressors, harsh skincare products, or the natural process of aging. Corneotherapy involves using gentle, non-irritating products and treatments that are compatible with the skin's natural processes, helping to encourage healing and maintain skin integrity without causing harm or irritation.
By prioritizing the skin's health at its core, corneotherapy works to balance, repair, and protect the skin, ensuring it remains resilient and functions effectively over time. This approach is not only beneficial for those looking to prevent premature aging or environmental damage, but it is especially advantageous for individuals with sensitive (or rather, reactive) skin or skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea.
For those with these conditions, corneotherapy helps to calm inflammation, restore the skin’s natural barrier, and reduce irritation, making it an ideal method for treating and maintaining overall skin health without exacerbating existing sensitivities. The focus on gentle, healing treatments makes it a safe and effective option for those with more delicate or compromised skin.
Key elements of corneotherapy include:
Hydration: Restoring moisture to the skin to keep it supple and healthy.
Barrier Repair: Using ingredients that help restore the skin’s protective outer layer, such as ceramides, fatty acids, and lipids.
Gentle, Non-Irritating Products: Avoiding harsh ingredients that could further damage the skin barrier, like strong exfoliants or fragrances.
Skin Health Maintenance: Incorporating products that support overall skin health and prevent future damage, such as antioxidants and soothing agents.
Treatments with a focus of nurturing and protecting the outermost layer of skin vs the alternate practice of aggressively beating the skin into submission through harsh resurfacing treatments*.
*While resurfacing treatments can produce visually appealing results, they may also lead to temporary, unwanted side effects such as dehydration, redness, and flaking if the skin isn’t properly cared for at home. That’s why we prioritize consultation—taking the time to understand your needs, assess your lifestyle, educate you on available treatment options are keys to select the right treatment for you.
Treatment Options at ICI PARIS with a core principle of preserving the skin barrier at all costs
Facial treatments rooted in corneotherapy encourage long-term skin health rather than just offering a quick fix. They are tailored to strengthen the skin barrier, restore hydration, resilience, and balance while also targeting common skin concerns such as acne, aging, dryness, and pigmentation. These treatments often incorporate the use of gentle, barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids, hyaluronic acid, and peptides, all of which support the skin's natural function without causing irritation.
A typical corneotherapy facial usually follows the familiar steps of a traditional facial, but with a more focused, therapeutic approach to skin health. The steps often include:
Cleansing: To remove impurities and prepare the skin for deeper treatment.
Exfoliation: Gentle exfoliation is used to remove dead skin cells, helping to improve cell turnover and allow better penetration of nourishing ingredients.
Extraction (if necessary): Removing clogged pores or comedones to prevent acne breakouts without disrupting the skin’s natural balance.
Massage: To increase circulation, promote relaxation, and support lymphatic drainage, which can help improve overall skin health.
Mask: A hydrating or soothing mask that delivers essential nutrients to the skin, addresses specific skin concerns, and aids in the restoration of the skin barrier.
Skin Needling / microneedling / microchanneling, can also be considered a form of corneotherapy when performed with the goal of supporting the skin's health and improving its function. As a Collagen Induction Therapy, microneedling works by creating micro-injuries in the skin, which stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, essential components for maintaining healthy, resilient skin. This process aligns perfectly with the principles of corneotherapy, as it helps rejuvenate the skin, improve texture, and encourage healthy skin regeneration.
Microneedling also enhances the absorption of beneficial ingredients, such as serums or moisturizers, which can further support the healing and strengthening of the skin barrier. By promoting better hydration, reducing inflammation, and improving the skin's ability to regenerate, microneedling helps address common skin concerns like acne scars, fine lines, and pigmentation—all while strengthening the outer layer of the skin.
When done correctly and with proper aftercare, microneedling can be an effective treatment to enhance the skin’s natural function, restore its barrier, and improve overall skin health, making it a valuable addition to a corneotherapy-focused skincare routine.
